What Is Aquascaping? A Beginner’s Guide
Apr 17th 2025
Aquascaping is a fusion of art and the science of arrangement. Its layout processes can be compared to those of a photographer or painter, as they have the same principles. Color, texture, and structure are formed by carefully cultivating and arranging live plants, stone, wood, sand, and other natural materials.
It takes an artistic eye, manual dexterity, and knowledge of several species of plants and their growth systems under water. The battle with algae rapidly becomes an art. Controlling illumination, CO2 intake, water circulation, and water chemistry is a fine art form that aims to keep everything flourishing and harmonious.
Definition: Aquascape/ˈä-kwe-ˌskap/ n: an arrangement of underwater plant life and structures inside an aquarium imitating an underwater ecosystem.
The History of Aquascaping and Takashi Amano’s Legacy
In Japan, the late and great Takashi Amano invented and popularized aquascaping. As a nature photographer, his hobby turned into capturing slices of nature in glass aquariums. He incorporated many Japanese gardening concepts, including Wabi-sabi and Zen rock arrangements, into his plant layouts. He founded Aqua Design Amano Co., Ltd. in 1982, which supplied equipment for growing aquatic plants. His Nature Aquarium photo books, Glass no Naka no Daishizen, published in 1992, followed by Mizu-Shizen no Kaiki, were translated into seven languages.
His nature aquariums are renowned worldwide, and today, his legacy continues through Aqua Design Amano and the countless adoring fans who were and still are inspired by him. The most hardcore hobbyists compete in aquascaping competitions, which feature thousands of submissions from around the globe.
Takashi Amano, the nature aquarium legend.
Styles That Inspire: Popular Aquascaping Layouts
Aquascaping is more than just arranging the plants and rocks in the tank; it is an art that transforms glass boxes into beautiful pieces of nature. Whether one prefers organized geometric shapes and minimalism or untamed overgrown jungles, every person can find a layout style that resonates with their sense of beauty.
In this blog, we will examine the most interesting ways aquarists build separate worlds, from traditional tried-and-true methods to innovative new takes on old ideas. Let’s discuss the styles that continue to inspire creativity in tanks of all sizes.
Iwagumi Aquascaping Style: Minimalist Japanese Rock Layouts
The Iwagumi aquascaping style is just a Japanese interpretation of nature where balance and tranquility are focal points. This is somewhat simplified compared to the works by aquascaping legend Takashi Amano. Breaking down his work, this style employs stones, ishi, as the focal feature of any given layout. He uses roughly three to five rocks where one, or the heaviest stone, is arranged (Oyaishi) and two others (Fukuishi and Soeishi) that balance the structure according to the Japanese design principle of asymmetrical odd numbers.
Every Iwagumi layout has minimal plant sources, usually capped with a single herbaceous plant like Glossostigma elatinoides or Hemianthus callitrichoides. Iwagumi aquarists prefer to use more merging and calm fish like Harlequin Rasboras or Cardinal Tetras to maintain stillness.
Iwagumi aquascape.
Classic Nature Aquarium
Takashi Amano also invented the Classic Nature Aquarium style, which is based on forests and river banks and takes inspiration from natural landscapes. This style blends driftwood, stones, aquatic plants, and the organic feel of nature into an aquarium that works as a miniature ecosystem.
The Nature Aquarium layout is more liberal with the different plant types than Iwagumi since it can contain stem plants, carpeting plants in the foreground, and epiphytes such as anubias and Java Fern. The flow of what is seen often moves towards the other one that follows the “golden ratio” or other natural compositional methods.
Classic, triangle-shaped nature aquarium layout is available at our Green Brook, NJ, location.
Brazilian Aquascaping Style
The Brazilian aquascaping style stands out for its unique high-intensity structural color and plant diversity. It has its roots in Brazil’s profound aquascaping community, integrating attributes of Dutch and Nature Aquarium styles with bold contrasts, hardscape decks, and structured row design.
An archetypical example of Brazilian aquascaping incorporates a variety of plant species. Notably, it showcases bright red and orange lip driftwood or rock formations, such as Alternanthera reineckii, Rotala macrandra, and Ludwigia. They add movement and contrast to the scenery alongside gradually flowing water.
Brazilian aquascape.
Diorama Aquascaping Style
Using diorama-style aquascaping tells a story through a beautifully crafted aquarium scape. Often regarded as the most dramatic and aesthetic form of aquascaping, Diorama layouts aim to replicate geographical features such as mountains, canyons, forests, or even unique landscapes beyond the aquarium.
As with paintings, Dioramas enhance perspective by placing miniature objects like bonsai trees, sand trails, or rock cliffs. Diorama aquascapes demand a lot of creativity to be visually appealing and serve as the centerpiece in many competitions.
Diorama aquascape in our New Hope, PA location.
Plan Before You Plant: A Guide to Smart Aquascaping Prep
Laying the groundwork is crucial before you buy a piece of driftwood or drop a plant into your tank. Proper planning is the difference between a balanced, long-lasting aquascape and one that needs constant fixing. Below are six essential tips to help you plan your aquascape before purchasing.
quascaping journey with a clear vision. Collect photos of aquascapes you admire—whether it's a serene Iwagumi layout or a lush Nature Aquarium. Pinterest, Instagram, and aquascaping competitions like IAPLC are goldmines for ideas. Save 3 to 5 examples that reflect the style, mood, or layout you’d like to replicate.
Just as important: know the exact dimensions of your aquarium. Many beginners fall in love with a layout style that doesn’t suit their tank size or shape. Whether working with a 5-gallon nano or a 90P rimless display, matching your hardscape and planting strategy to your tank’s proportions will save you money and frustration.
Don’t Combine Different Rock and Wood Types
Consistency is key in aquascaping. Mixing multiple rock types or combining different driftwoods (like Spider Wood and Madra Wood) can make your layout look disjointed or unnatural. Stick with one type of rock and one type of wood to maintain visual cohesion and create a believable environment.
For example, avoid adding Dragon Stone or other porous rocks using Seiryu Stone for a crisp Iwagumi layout. Similarly, if you've chosen Manzanita for its fine branches, skip chunkier woods that don’t match its aesthetic.
Choosing the Right Hardscape for Your Aquarium Substrate
Believe it or not, your substrate can make or break your layout’s realism. If you’re using aquarium soil with a warm, red-brown tone, opt for a hardscape that complements it, like Maple Leaf stone or spider wood. On the other hand, a bright sand foreground pairs beautifully with pale woods or light-colored stones like Elephant Skin or Ryuoh Stone.
This visual harmony ties your space together and prevents your layout from feeling off-color. It's also worth noting that some rocks can alter water chemistry—always research how they interact with your chosen substrate and livestock.
Experiment in the Aquascaping Dojo
Think of your workspace—a table, floor, or empty tank—as your aquascaping dojo. Most aquarium stores that supply aquascaping products will have a dedicated aquascaping dojo for you to design before you buy. Regardless of venue, arrange your hardscape outside the tank before committing to anything to test different layouts. This allows you to rotate, reposition, and swap out pieces without dealing with water, soil, or plants.
Photograph each iteration from the front to see how it reads visually. What looks great in your head often doesn’t quite translate to an excellent space or look great in a 2D photo. Treat this step as your creative playground to experiment and refine your vision.
Leave Room for Maintenance
When building your dream aquascape, it’s easy to get lost in aesthetics, but practicality matters. Make sure you leave open space for maintenance tools like algae scrapers, trimming scissors, and siphons. Avoid cramming plants or stones against all four glass panels; your future self will thank you during weekly water changes.
Think long-term: plant growth, fish waste, and algae will require regular attention. Design with accessibility and flow in mind so you can maintain your aquascape without disrupting its structure.
Label Your Hardscape with Masking Tape and Number Each Piece
Once you’ve locked in your layout, take a photo of your final hardscape setup—this snapshot becomes your blueprint when it’s time to recreate it in the aquarium. Then, use masking tape to label and number each rock or wood piece, and take another photo. This step may sound tedious, but it prevents confusion during setup. A visual reference and a numbered guide help you rebuild your aquascape quickly and accurately. No more remembering “where that one cool rock was supposed to go.”
Here is a hardscape layout in our aquascaping dojo. Notice the numbered pieces to make reassembly easier.
Substrate and Soil: Creating a Base for Your Aquascape
While setting up a beautiful aquascape, your aquarium's substrate or bottom layer is more than just an ornament. In aquascaping, substrate is not secondary, as it assists in growing plants, anchors the hardscape, and defines the contours of the layout. Every type of substrate, from nutrient-rich soils to crisp white sands, has its own purpose.
Aqua Soil: The Foundation for Healthy Plant Growth
Aqua soil is the primary substrate used in most planted aquariums. Made from nutrient-rich clay-based materials, aqua soils such as ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia or Oase Scaperline Soil provide essential nutrients for root-feeding plants. They promote strong, healthy root systems and help maintain ideal water parameters by lowering pH and softening water conditions that most aquatic plants prefer.
In high-tech and Nature Aquarium-style aquascapes, aqua soil is considered non-negotiable. It supports lush carpeting plants like Monte Carlo, Glossostigma elatinoides, and Eleocharis, while offering long-term fertility that gravel or sand alone can’t match.
Sand: Clean, Aesthetic Open Spaces
White or beige sands are usually used in Iwagumi or Brazilian-style layouts to accentuate the hardscape and increase the brightness of the aquascape. Remember, though, it’s best to put sand in places you do not wish to plant thickly, as it compacts over time and does not have enough nutrients for most rooted plants.
In Iwagumi and Brazilian styles, white or beige sand is often used to highlight the hardscape features and brighten the aquascape. Sand should only be added to places not heavily planted, as it compacts over time and generally lacks the nutrients required for most rooted plants.
Gravel in Aquascaping: How to Add Realism & Texture
In modern aquascapes, gravel serves mainly an aesthetic purpose. It is perfect for transitions between sand pathways and rock formations or for contrasting plants and hardscapes.
Fine gravel can also help anchor delicate root plants or serve as cover for bottom-dwelling species of fish, shrimp, or other macroinvertebrates. Some aquascapers create imitation forest or stream bed floors using gravel mixes. It’s best to use inert gravel that won't chemically alter the water, and washing it beforehand is also best.
Underlayer and Backfill: Building Structure and Boosting Health
A well-structured aquascape usually begins with a concealed underlayer made of porous materials like pumice or lava rock. These light rocks have many functions: They decrease the amount of expensive aqua soil needed, add elevation for steep slopes, and promote circulation through the substrate.
Porous lava stone is even more crucial in creating ideal conditions for the beneficial colonies, which aid the tank’s nitrogen cycle and enhance its water quality. This fill layer can prevent dead spaces from forming below the sediment, allowing plant roots better access to nutrients.
Pro Tip: Layer with Intention
The best aquascapes often combine substrates to balance function and form. A typical layout might include:
- Lava rock or pumice as a base layer
- Aqua soil as the primary growing medium
- Sand to create clean, open spaces
- Gravel for texture and transitions
By planning your substrate layers in advance, you can create a more natural-looking ad that will lay the groundwork for healthier plant growth and easier long-term maintenance.
Tips for Building a Hardscape
Having a hardscape in an aquascape is essential for any aquarium enthusiast. It enriches the layout, suggests where plants and fish will thrive, and sets the mood for the aquarium. Keeping soft scapes like stone and driftwood in mind, along with essential techniques, is instrumental in creating the ideal planted aquarium.
Tips for mastering the dos and don’ts of aquascaping hardscape have been suggested to aid you in becoming a professional immediately.
Use Large Objects Up Front; Smaller Ones in The Back
Blurring depth in aquascaping is an aspect that helps differentiate between a larger and a smaller aquarium. A handful of methods exist, such as using perspective to position smaller decor pieces towards the back while placing larger pieces at the forefront. This gives the tank a more natural feel, enabling a more immersive experience.
Using ledge outline space like sand to amplify the effect, coupled with forced perspective, works well. This is particularly useful for smaller tanks and diorama-style layouts.
There Isn’t Always a Perfect Piece— Create One
When aquascaping, the ideal branch or rock isn’t prepackaged and ready to use. In most cases, the most breathtaking hardscapes are formed by using several components to create the illusion of one single piece. The beauty of nature often relies on the interplay between distinct parts, so go ahead and glue drifting wood branches together, stack stones, and tilt them to get the angle that gives the most satisfying balance to the arrangement.
If your inspiration photo features a dramatic arch or mountain formation, don’t stress if you can’t find a piece that matches it—you can build it using smaller components and clever assembly.
Anchor Wood to Heavy Stones to Prevent Floating
Driftwood often floats when first submerged, especially if it’s new or hasn’t been pre-soaked. This can ruin your layout and damage surrounding plants or glass. The solution? Anchor your wood to heavier stones at the base.
Use zip ties, stainless steel screws, or strong adhesives to secure the wood, then bury the stone base beneath the substrate for a clean look. Over time, the wood will become waterlogged and stay submerged, but anchoring it early keeps your scape stable.
Attach Wood and Stone Using Super Glue and Plant-Based Material
When combining multiple hardscape pieces, you’ll need something stronger than gravity to hold them together. The more substantial solution? Super glue (cyanoacrylate) paired with a plant-based material like cotton or a paper towel. The glue quickly bonds to the hardscape and the fibrous material, creating a surprisingly strong, nearly invisible connection.
This method is aquarium-safe and widely used by professional aquascapers. Once submerged, the glue cures instantly, and the plant material helps bridge small gaps while forming a strong bond. To clean up any visible bonds, add a little super glue and crumble aqua soil over the top to mask the area.
Use Filter Sponge or Filter Floss to Block Soil from Escaping
If your layout includes elevated soil areas, especially next to clean sand zones, you’ll want to prevent any following from spilling into places it doesn’t belong. One clever trick is using a filter sponge or floss to plug gaps behind stones or wood. These soft, flexible, and water-permeable materials make them perfect barriers for keeping soil and sand layers cleanly separated.
This small detail can greatly improve the aesthetic clarity of your landscape, especially in tanks with contrasting substrate types like black soil and white sand.
Remember: Leave Room for Maintenance
While building a gorgeous hardscape, it is easy to forget the importance of practicality. Remember to design for maintenance—ensure adequate blank space for implements such as trimmers, algae scrapers, and siphons. Never obstruct access to filter intake points or spy vital regions obscured by massive clusters of rocks.
Also, consider trimming plants and gathering loose debris. If your design is too complicated, cleaning becomes a hassle, and the beauty of your aquascape may suffer with time.
Planting for Impact: Choosing the Right Aquatic Plants
One of the most interesting aspects of aquascaping is selecting and organizing the underwater plants to bring your design to life. However, planting is not only adding flora to a layout and covering blank or empty spaces. It also requires adding depth and contrast, along with a natural flow. The aquatic plants selected must be in sync with the design of your aquascape, the lighting, CO2 levels, and your skill level.
Aquatic plants come in many different shapes, sizes, and colors. How you choose and arrange your plants is important to the success of your aquascape.
Unvital plants and aquatic plants differ in their care, and one of the most cited errors new aquascapers make is trying to affix plants to a tank environment that doesn’t suit them. If you have a low-tech tank that doesn’t use a CO2 injector or moderate lighting, stick to hardy species that can thrive in those conditions, such as Java Fern, Anubias, or Cryptocoryne.
If you're planning a high-energy tank with a Dutch or Nature aquarium, you will likely need a CO2 injector and strong lights to support more demanding species.
For example, red aquarium plants are said to be among the most demanding plants because they need a lot of light and CO2 to maintain their vibrant colors. They tend to fade to a dull green or wither without those conditions.
Such is the case with scrolling plants like Monte Carlo, Glossostigma, and Dwarf Baby Tears. Light and CO2 are obligatory if thick, lush carpets are desired. In the absence of these conditions, the plants will merely grow sparse tendrils—or remain dormant.
Foreground Plants
Tall-growing species positioned in rhomboid planter boxes create a feeling of flora and fauna scaling the entire tank. As such, all short, grass-like, or carpeting plants positioned in the foreground help elicit an open space; the focal point of the hardscape captures attention.
Popular options: Monte Carlo, Dwarf Hairgrass, Glossostigma elatinoides, Micro Sword.
Conditions: Carpet variants require high light and CO2, though some slower growers can work in low-tech setups.
Midground Plants: Blending Heights and Textures
The midground bridges the viewpoint with the lower striking plants and tall plants in the back. This layer is important because it fosters depth and flow, softens the transitions, and adapts the layout elements of the aquascaping.
Popular options: Cryptocoryne wendtii, Hygrophila pinnatifida, Lobelia cardinalis, Staurogyne repens.
Look for bushy or slightly taller species that offer alteration in textural patterns but do not block the view.
Background Plants: Adding Height and Movement
This is where the tallest plants in your layout go. Most of these serve as a frame for the aquascape. Some grow quickly, making a curtain or wall of plants beneath the tank.
Popular options: Ludwigia repens, Cyperus helferi, Vallisneria, Echinodorus, Rotala rotundifolia.
Some are fast-growing stems, while others, like swords and crypts, frame large rosettes in the background that anchor the design.
Pro Tip: To conceal equipment such as filters and heaters, put tall plants around the focal point to hide the equipment.
Epiphytes and Moss: Easy and Versatile
Epiphytes attach themselves to wood and stones instead of being planted in soil. They are one of the easiest plants to grow, making them ideal for beginners and people looking for low-maintenance aquascapes.
Popular options: Anubias, Java Fern, Bucephalandra, Christmas Moss.
No planting is necessary; they can be easily secured using glue, thread, or fishing line.
Without needing detailed maintenance or certain substrate types, epiphytes can bring a natural look and feel while adding variation in height and detail to the hardscape.
Floating Plants: Fast-Growing and Functional
These freely floating plants sit on the water's surface and are best suited for low-flow tanks. They efficiently limit sunlight penetration, reducing algae growth and inhibiting access to unnecessary nutrients while providing shade.
Popular Options: Salvinia, Frogbit, Water Lettuce, Red Root Floaters
These delicate roots can be damaged or pushed into corners in high-flow or high-tech tanks with surface agitation. Floating plants are beneficial in shrimp tanks, breeding setups, and low-light aquascapes where oversight aids in controlling algae.
How To Correctly Plant Aquarium Plants
After finishing your aquascaping layout, it’s time to add life to your design using aquatic plants. However, do not plunge unthinkingly into planting stems; wisely prepare the plants. Whether you have potted plants, bunched stems, carpeting species, or epiphytes such as Anubias or Java Fern, avoiding prep work ensures vigorous decay and a more complicated planting process.
Preparing Aquatic Plants for Planting
Plant preparation is often overlooked, but it’s a key step in successful aquascaping. When done right, you avoid introducing dead matter into your tank, improve plant health, and set yourself up for easier planting.
Here’s how to prepare each plant type for your aquascape:
- Potted Plants (in rock wool): Gently remove the plant from the pot. Carefully pull away as much of the rock wool as possible from the roots. Then, separate individual stems or rosettes so you can plant them more evenly throughout your scape.
- A lead weight or a rubber band: Often holds bunched-stem plants together. Remove the wrap and separate the individual stems to prevent rot and ensure proper spacing during planting.
- Rosette and epiphyte Plants: Trim away excessively long roots—this encourages new root growth and makes planting easier. Also, snip off any damaged or dying leaves to prevent decay in the tank.
- Tall Stem Plants: If a stem plant is too long, cut it in half. You now have two plants! The trimmed end will root, and the top will continue to grow after planting.
- Carpeting Plante Carlo or Dwarf Hairgrass: Gently divide into small plugs or clumps. Planting in small clusters improves coverage and speeds up the carpeting process.
Pro tip: Lay your prepped plants on a sheet pan or shallow tray. This helps you keep everything organized during planting, and lets you mist them to keep them hydrated while you work.
How to Plant in Aquarium Soil or Substrate
Now that your plants are prepped, it's time to get your hands wet (literally). Here’s how to correctly plant them in the substrate to encourage strong rooting and healthy growth.
- Rosette Plants (like Cryptocoryne and Amazon Swords) grow outward over time, so give them plenty of space to reach their full size.
- Stem Plants: Plant individually or in pairs rather than bunches. Leave some room between each to allow light penetration and airflow—this helps prevent melting and encourages better growth.
- Carpeting Plants: Insert small clumps into the substrate using tweezers. Spacing them a few centimeters apart will help them spread more evenly and mimic a natural, dense carpet over time. Don’t worry if they look like bad hair plugs at first—it’s normal!
- Use Aquascaping Tweezers: A solid pair of aquascaping tweezers will make planting faster, cleaner, and more precise, especially in tight or delicate areas.
How to Attach Epiphytes and Moss to Hardscape
Some aquatic plants don’t go in the soil at all. Epiphytes and mosses thrive when attached to wood or stone, and they’re handy for adding texture and detail.
- Epiphyte Plants (Anubias, Bucephalandra, Java Fern): These plants have a rhizome that should never be buried in soil or sand. Instead, wedge them gently into rock or wood crevices. Add a dab of super glue gel to the roots to hold them in place until they anchor themselves.
- Aquarium Moss (like Christmas Moss or Java Moss): Finely chop the moss into small pieces for a natural look. Then attach it to hardscape using a light layer of super glue gel or tie it down with thread or fishing line.
Important: Avoid gluing moss or epiphyte roots—it can block light and water, slowing their growth.
Lighting, Filtration, and CO2: The Tech Behind the Beauty
Behind every lush aquascape lies a balance of nature and technology. While the plants and hardscape might draw the eye, the unseen equipment makes the beauty possible. From crystal-clear water to vibrant reds and dense carpeting, your tank’s success depends on getting your lighting, filtration, and CO2 system just right.
Filtration: Keep It Clean and Flowing
A reliable aquarium filtration system is essential for any planted tank. In aquascaping, our main goals are to keep the water clear, maintain healthy flow, and support beneficial bacteria.
Unlike tanks with heavy bio-loads (like cichlid or goldfish tanks), aquascaping filters typically focus on mechanical and biological filtration—we don’t rely much on chemical media unless it's for specific water adjustments.
Here are the most common types of filters used in aquascaping:
- Canister Filter: This is the “gold standard” for medium to large aquascapes. It has high flow, customizable media trays, and can be hidden out of sight. It is great for aquascapes that prioritize clean aesthetics.
- Internal Filter: A compact solution usually used in nano tanks. These sit inside the aquarium, but are quiet and easy to maintain.
- Hang-On-Back (HOB) Filter: This is the best choice for beginner aquascapes. It is very user-friendly, easy to install, and maintain, while providing sufficient filtration and surface agitation.
- Sump Filter: This filter is best for large, high-tech setups. It offers a large media capacity and conceals equipment outside the main display tank. It is usually needed only for aquariums over 100+ gallons.
- Sponge Filter: This is simple, cheap, and effective for biological and mechanical filtration—especially in shrimp tanks, breeding setups, or quarantine tanks. However, it is unsuitable for use with CO2 injection because it releases CO2 as injected.
Regardless of your setup, ensure your filter has enough flow to distribute nutrients evenly and prevent dead spots in your aquascape. Water circulation is essential in removing detritus from the plants and hardscape and ensuring that every corner of the tank is saturated with nutrients.
Lighting: Powering Plant Growth and Color
Not all lights are created equal when it comes to lighting for planted aquariums. Plants rely on consistent, high-quality light to photosynthesize, grow, and maintain vibrant coloration. Even the most meticulously planted scape will fall flat without the right spectrum and intensity.
Set your lights on a timer to provide 6–8 hours of consistent daily light. This mimics natural daylight cycles, ensures stability, and helps prevent algae growth caused by excess lighting.
Our Go-To Aquarium Plant Lights
At FFP, we’ve tested numerous brands and found the best results with WRGB LED lights. These full-spectrum lights deliver strong PAR levels (Photosynthetically Active Radiation), fueling growth and coloration in aquatic plants.
We recommend:
- Twinstar S Series and Chihiros WRGB – Ideal for high-tech tanks with demanding plant species or deep aquariums.
- Twinstar E Series and Aquaworx – Perfect for nano tanks or low-tech aquascapes with less demanding lighting needs.
Pro tip: If you splurge on any part of your aquascaping setup, let it be the aquarium light. A high-quality light will last years, provide healthier plant growth, and make your aquascape pop with color.
CO2 Injection: Supercharging Plant Growth
CO2 (carbon dioxide) is one of the most powerful tools for transforming your planted tank. While small amounts of CO2 exist naturally in all well-aerated water, injecting CO2 into the water column dramatically improves aquatic plant growth, encourages dense carpeting, and enhances red coloration in demanding plant species. Without CO2, many high-tech aquascapes simply won’t thrive.
What You’ll Need to Set Up Aquarium CO2 Injection
Setting up CO2 for your aquascape may seem intimidating, but it's no harder than installing an air pump. Here’s a more complicated breakdown of what you need for a basic pressurized system:
- CO2 Tank: A 5lb tank is ideal for aquariums under 50 gallons. Most tanks are refillable and last 6–8 months.
- CO2 Regulator: Opt for one with a dual-stage design and solenoid valve. This allows precise control, prevents a CO2 dump when pressure changes, and allows for automation.
- Bubble Counter: Tracks how much CO2 is injected, usually measured in bubbles per second.
- CO2 Tubing: Be sure to use CO2-resistant tubing (not airline tubing), which prevents gas from seeping out.
- Check Valve: Protects your regulator from water backflow.
- Diffuser: This converts CO2 gas into fine microbubbles for better absorption. Choose from inline diffusers, in-tank ceramic diffusers, or even atomizers and place them in areas with high water flow.
- Drop Checker: This glass device visually indicates CO2 concentration based on pH changes. It is ideal for beginners trying to dial in the perfect amount.
Tips for Effective CO2 Use
- Start with one bubble per second and increase slowly while monitoring your plants and drop checker.
- Plug your solenoid into a timer. CO2 should turn on an hour before the lights go on and shut off an hour before the lights turn off, allowing maximum absorption.
- Position your diffuser where it can get maximum circulation—this ensures the CO2 spreads evenly.
- You can use paintball canisters for SodaStream tanks with an adapter for smaller setups.
These high-tech aquariums in our Green Brook, NJ, location are balanced with regular maintenance and proper equipment.
Keeping Your Aquascape Looking Fresh
Maintaining an aquascape system is relatively easy and does not require hours of intricate detailing. The planted aquarium can be preserved in a beautiful, healthy equilibrium every week with just a few small steps.
Bringing equilibrium to an aquascape or a planted tank involves gentle water removal, ranging from 10 to 20% weekly. This gentle approach revolves water every week while keeping beneficial bacteria, waste, and excess nutrients untouched.
Remember to power off your filter and the heater to eliminate the chances of any damage. After the water has filled to a specific level, take the time to clean the glass while removing the floating plant debris using a fine-meshed net. If a clog lies within the filter, gently rinsing it with old tank water suffices. Maintaining a sound filtration system and all the aquarium's beneficial bacteria is essential.
After refilling the tank with dechlorinated water, add a water conditioner, remembering that it is dosed for the total tank volume, not just the replaced portion. Also, add beneficial bacteria to support the system and help your aquatic plants.
Proper Trimming Matters
Correct trimming is important to the care and maintenance of your accessories, as it allows them to remain beautiful. The first step is cleaning the leaves and removing dead, decaying, or yellowing leaves. If left unattended, these will cause the water to contain high levels of nitrates and phosphates, which in turn will cause algae to bloom.
Stem-type plants such as Rotala or Ludwigia tend to outgrow their tallest height, so you should practice trimming them regularly. A good suggestion would be to cut below the node and replant the top section—this creates new growth. These cuttings will develop roots that help form new plants and fill your aquascape naturally.
Mariusz Sowiak suggests helping short carpeting plants like Pogostemon helferi and Monte Carlo dwarf baby tears remain under control. If they become too tall or thick, they might float off the substrate and ruin the aesthetics of your scape. With Anubias or Java Fern, for example, appropriate propagation is achieved by cutting the rhizome into smaller pieces, each bearing a few leaves. In contrast, moss must be trimmed regularly to prevent detaching from the hardscape. While trimming, moss cannot sink; siphon away the trimmings immediately.
Ensure that your plants have access to consistent nutrients so the growth remains lush and there is no nutrient deficiency. Nutrient imbalance must be avoided so your aquarium can grow vibrantly. Deploying micro-dosing, that is, daily or every other day, is a good approach. When teamed with an all-in-one liquid fertilizer, ‘micro-dosing’ gives the plants unrestrained access to nutrients and assures that algal feasting will be minimized.
Changing the water weekly will reset the overall nutrient levels and improve fertilization. Each time you change the water, make sure you put back the fertilizer. Using a liquid algae control enhancer like Seachem Excel or APT Fix is also a good idea. These products stop black beard and hair algae, two main issues in planted tanks. A daily dosage is recommended in tanks with high lighting or added CO2.
Prevention is the Best Way to Control Algae
No matter how well-maintained the aquarium is, algae in aquascapes will remain an ever-present problem. Preventing the problem is much more effective than cleaning up after it. Altering the equilibrium of food in the tank is a prevalent cause of uncontrolled algae growth—overfeeding results in the breakdown of leftover food, which releases nutrients that feed algae and snails.
Preventing algae also requires keeping the tank clean of unwanted plant matter. As they die, plants release a lot of waste that algae can use. Improved cleaning procedures include soaking new plants in a potassium permanganate solution, which makes getting rid of algae spores, harmful bacteria, pests, and snail eggs easy.
Heavily planting the aquarium is one of the most effective and ecological ways to prevent algae growth. Well-maintained aquatic plants can soak up more light and nutrients, allowing algae to occupy little space.
Put Consistency in Your Routine
As mentioned above, maintaining an aquascape system is most healthily done in a well-defined routine. Setting the light on a timer is great; 6 to 8 hours of light will support plant excellence and reduce the chances of algae growth due to predictability. Stick to a daily or bi-daily routine of fertilizer and algae inhibitor application. Make weekly water changes a routine.
These practices will not only improve the health of plants and clear the water but also create a low-stress, maintainable aquarium that is pleasing to the eye. With some attention taken weekly, the aquascape will be beautifully balanced for years to come.
The Final Touch: Livestock for Your Aquascape
After successfully planting and establishing your aquarium, the subsequent step is to bring in selected livestock to enhance movement and life. However, not every fish species will work well with an aquarium containing plants.
While Fitz’s Fish Ponds offers a full range of aquascape-friendly fish and invertebrates, knowing every species before putting them in your fish tank is still very important. Some fish can uproot plants, dig in the substrate, or get so big that they wreck your delicate design, which has taken so long to arrange carefully. You will want to avoid stocking these species in your aquascaped tank.
You have a few options for choosing livestock for a planted aquarium; as a rule, make sure they are small, calm, and plant-safe. Ideal candidates include schooling species like rasboras and danios, harlequin tetras, and corydoras catfish. They are small-sized, provide balance and movement to the tank, and are entirely harmless to the plants.
Freshwater ornamental shrimp, particularly cherry and amano shrimp, are another popular animal for planted tanks. They are entertaining to observe and help with algae and general tank cleaning.
If you're looking for a stunning showpiece for your aquarium, fish like betta splendens, angelfish for larger tanks, apistogrammas, and German blue rams are perfect due to their vibrant colors. However, these species have unique temperaments that require studying, so we highly recommend looking into that before purchasing tankmates.
Only introduce fish and shrimp to your aquarium after you are certain it is cycled, which will take around 4 to 6 weeks. Your plants should also be established and not easily uprooted, taking about 2 weeks after planting. If you don't want the hassle of testing your water using an aquarium test kit, take a water sample to any Fitz’s Fish Ponds retail location, as we offer this service for free! Once ammonia and nitrite levels reach near zero and nitrates are present, the tank is ready to introduce livestock.
The number of fish for a specific tank size is also essential. For best results, estimate the tank size by multiplying the number of fish in inches by 1 and the number of tank gallons in water by 10, considering the adult size, not the size at the store, which is the overrated common sizing technique. Using these methods allows for more straightforward computation and rough stocking limits.
Instead of segregating them by 1 or 2 fish and causing them distress and the tank with water quality issues, we suggest using the less tedious and stressful method of getting five to six fish, such as tetras or danios, which are optimal schooling fish.
To save time, quarantining fish before putting them in the main tank is usually avoided. Not taking the recommended vital steps to save fish breeds can introduce parasites or diseases, such as those seen in established tanks. Quarantining is especially helpful with hidden diseases that require time to reveal themselves and cause damage, so do it just in case.
Adding shrimps and otocinclus catfish might enhance the beauty of your tank, but little do you know they serve the vital purpose of an algae cleanup crew. This offsets the amano and nerite slugs, making them the holy trinity of natural algae management. For optimal outcomes, assuming every 10 gallons contains 1 active member of the holy trinity, a tad over one-5 otoconius is required to unleash their schooling power, making them comfortable amongst their healthy peers.
Integrating livestock at the correct time will complete your aquascape with movement, personality, and a balanced ecosystem. Remember: Take your time while researching; it will reward you with life and beauty.
FAQ About Aquascaping
What do I need to start aquascaping?
Like many hobbies requiring some artistry, aquascaping requires a fair amount of equipment; while purchasing everything might seem pricey, it is generally an investment worth making. Central to the practice is, first and foremost, an aquarium tank and a sturdy stand. You will also need hardscape components such as rocks, wood, and substrates, like aqua soil, sand, or gravel.
To conserve water quality, you will require filtration systems, such as canister or sponge filters, and lighting like WRGB LED lights. If you want to get more technical, inject CO2 into the plants. Conditioners, fertilizers, and test kits help ensure good water quality and healthy plants. Do not add any livestock until your tank is fully cycled, and then add a variety of plant life, ranging from midground and background stem plants to foreground carpeting plants.
What is the golden rule of aquascaping?
Fish keepers often debate the aquascaping divide between adhering strictly to the golden ratio as one principle or mounting the more free-spirited approach to employing organic shapes via the so-called “rule of thirds.”
Regardless of what unbelievable norms stratify aesthetic choices through your lens, balance takes precedence over any other technique when making choices within aquascaping and repurposing nature as a living piece of art.
What does the term aquascaping mean?
Aquascaping is a process that consists of multiple steps:
- Planning: Research is crucial because it will allow you to select the right plants, hardscape materials, and equipment matching the size of your tank and the specific aquascape style you wish to construct.
- Setting up: Incorporate the tank's substrate and start working on placing the hardscape (rocks, wood) to achieve a centerpiece.
- Planting: Remove excess roots and separate stems or clumps to prepare your plants. With your plants ready, you can strategically place them into the tank.
- Filling The Tank: After planting, it is advisable to fill the tank with dechlorinated water and install the filter, CO2 system, and lights as required.
- Cycling and Adjusting: Wait for the aquarium to complete cycling its nitrogen, test water parameters, and make setup adjustments.
- Livestock Addition: You can add invertebrates and fish after root establishment, alongside completing the nitrogen cycle.
What do you mean by the term aquascaping?
Aquascaping is considered an art because it involves placing aquatic plants, rocks, wood, and other materials in an aquarium. An aquascaped aquarium should be visually stunning and balanced.
The aim should be to craft an aquarium that closely resembles natural underwater scenery, emphasizing the growth of aquatic vegetation and the beautiful arrangement of natural features while establishing a suitable environment for fish and other living organisms within the water.
What do I need to start aquascaping?
You will need the following to start aquascaping:
- Aquarium: A tank is necessary; its size depends on a preliminary aquascape model and fish species.
- Aquarium Stand: A well-designed aquarium stand will also sustain the weight and size of the tank.
- Filtration System: A filter is obligatory. Both mechanical and biological filtration (canister filter, internal filter, sponge filter, etc.) are critical in keeping water quality at acceptable standards.
- Lighting: Healthy plants require lighting, and WRGB LED lights offer the best equilibrium for vigorous plant growth.
- Substrate: Aqua soil, sand, and gravel to plant in or decorate with.
- CO2 System: Necessary for high-tech aquascapes, which require CO2 injection to cultivate and color the plants.
- Water Conditioner & Fertilizer: Required for the best water conditions, and while adding nutrients through a fertilizer.
- Hardscape Materials: Rocks, wood, and other materials to form a rough structure or sculpture.
- Test kit: Intended for monitoring water parameters such as pH, kH, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates; therefore, essential for tank health.
- What species of plant is the most suitable for beginner aquascapers?
- Instead, we recommend getting plants that are not too complex and do not require trimming as frequently.
Recommended species include the following:
- Anubias species: These are recommended for beginners as they can be attached to hardscapes and do not require too much light.
- Java Fern (Microsorum Pteropus): Also easy to care for and can be attached to wood, rocks, and other hardy plants.
- Cryptocoryne species: Versatile with water; can tolerate varying temperatures and low light conditions.
- Bacopa caroliniana: Strong stem plant; ideal for filling in the background of aquariums.
- Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis): The least challenging of all carpeting plants; can be cultivated in low-tech aquascapes with sufficient lighting.
How do you select the best substrate and hardscape materials for an aquascape?
Selecting a substrate involves satisfying the requirements of the plants you intend to keep and considering aesthetics. Aqua soil has plenty of gold and gives off the right nutrients, aiding plant growth, while sand and proper gravel could function as aesthetics or backdrops.
When selecting materials for the hardscape, focus on the materials used for the rest of your aquascape. If minimalism is the desired effect, smooth rocks and driftwood could be appropriate choices. Also, ensure the materials will not harm the aquarium or affect its parameters. Stay away from limestone and other materials known to change pH or hardness.
Does aquascaping require CO2 injection?
CO2 injection has great advantages, especially for high-tech aquaculture, as it makes plant growth more vigorous and improves color. For someone with a low-maintenance or low-tech setup, CO2 injection isn’t necessary.
Still, it will help deliver the best from the plants, especially if they are aimed at being carpet plants, which require high levels of CO2 to keep their color. CO2 injection is important to achieve a beautiful, dense carpet of foliage or stunning, vibrant red leaves.
What steps do you need to follow to set up a planted aquarium?
An aquarium with plants requires maintenance such as changing the water (10-20% each week), cleaning the filter, removing excess algae and overgrown plants, and regular fertilization.
Additionally, monitoring water temperature, nutrients, pH level, and algae volume is essential. To improve the aesthetics, the preferred shape or trimming is required, as well as maintaining optimal growth. In any case, trimming foliage needs to be done to enhance the visual attractiveness of the aquascape and promote healthy development.
Equally important is to maintain the balance of algae, fertilizers, and growth inhibitors added to the ecosystem.
What are some common mistakes to avoid in aquascaping for beginners?
- Overstocking or Improper stocking: Adding a larger quantity of fish without regard to their grown size or behavior still leads to water quality problems and the destruction of plants and hardscape.
- Inadequate lighting: Incorrect or inadequate lighting will impede plant growth. Leaving the light on for too long will create excessive algae growth. Lights should only be on 6 – 8 hours a day and on a timer.
- Overfeeding fish: Providing excess food to the fish increases the number of nutrients within the water, which promotes algae growth.
- Not cycling the aquarium: Livestock cannot be added before the nitrogen cycle exists. If there are fish present, this will harm the fish over time.
- Improper plant selection: Failure to correctly choose plants that fit the size of the aquarium (or within the environmental conditions of lighting, CO2, and substrate to augment their growth).
- Inadequate substrate: Aqua soil is the only empirically crafted substrate for growing plants. When using sand or gravel for planting, changes to the selection of plants and fertilizers needed for these soils must be made to achieve success.
Can fish and aquascaping plants coexist in the same tank?
While digging and uprooting plants is common among numerous species of fish, some more peaceful species, such as tetras, rasboras, and shrimp, could coexist with an even more planted aquarium and improve its aesthetic and functioning. Invertebrates, along with fish, make any aquascaped tank more visually appealing. The togetherness of fish and plants is possible in an aquascaped tank.
How long does it take to establish a stable aquascape?
Establishing a more mature aquascape takes approximately four to six weeks. A serene level in the number of water changes and maintenance will ensure the ecosystem reaches a more settled equilibrium. Completing the nitrogen cycle and achieving plant root stabilization mark the defining boundary of a more stable aquascape.
Eventually, once a robust baseline is established, an increase in plant growth accompanied by the level of maintenance provided over time will be visible. Regular testing of the water also supports the delicate balance.
Bring Your Vision to Life: Start Your Aquascape Today
Whether you're imagining a serene Iwagumi layout, a wild jungle-style scape, or a vibrant Brazilian showcase, the best time to begin is now. Aquascaping isn’t just a hobby—it’s an immersive way to express creativity, build balance, and create a living work of art that brings calm and inspiration to any space.
Don’t just admire aquascapes online—create your own. Look to Fitz’s Fish Ponds for expert advice, premium hardscape materials, healthy aquatic plants, and all the gear you need to build your underwater masterpiece.
Not sure where to start? Our team can guide you step-by-step, from layout design to lighting, filtration, and planting strategies tailored to your tank. Call us now at (908) 360-1755. Or visit one of our retail locations to explore everything you need to get started. Have questions? Our aquascaping experts are just a call or message away.
